If there is one wine that tells the story of western Sicily, it is Catarratto. It is the most widely planted white grape on the island and the heart of the whites of Alcamo. For decades it was seen as a grape for quantity; today many young winemakers are rediscovering it for its freshness and savouriness.
What is Catarratto?
Catarratto is a native Sicilian white grape. It covers about 30,000 hectares, more than 30% of all the region’s vineyards, and is among the most widely planted grapes in Italy. It is found mainly in western Sicily, in the provinces of Trapani, Palermo and Agrigento, but also in other parts of the island.
Comune, lucido, extra lucido: what is the difference?
Labels often say “Catarratto comune” or “Catarratto lucido”. The names come from the look of the grapes: lucido berries have less bloom, the whitish waxy coating on the skin, so they look shinier. Officially there are two registered varieties, Catarratto bianco comune and Catarratto bianco lucido. The most recent genetic studies, however, consider them essentially the same variety: the differences depend on the shape of the bunch and on selection in the vineyard.
A long history: from Marsala to the Alcamo DOC
For centuries Catarratto was one of the main grapes of Marsala. In the 20th century it lost ground to Grillo and was grown mainly for its high yields.
Alcamo white, however, had a much older reputation: in the 19th century it was listed among the fine table wines, and in 1887 it received a diploma of honour at the Venice Wine Fair. The Alcamo DOC was created in 1972: for the white, the rules require at least 60% Catarratto, and at least 80% for the Classico version.
What does it taste like?
A good Catarratto is straw yellow, with aromas of citrus, white flowers and Mediterranean herbs. On the palate it is fresh, with good acidity and often a savoury, almost salty finish that recalls the nearby sea. It is not a “fat” or oaky wine: it is at its best when young, drunk in its first few years.
How to serve it and what to pair it with
- Temperature: 10–12 °C, cool but not ice-cold.
- Glass: a medium-sized white wine glass.
- Pairings: seafood starters, grilled fish, fried small fish, fresh cheeses, summer salads. With Trapani cuisine, for example fish couscous, it is a natural match.
An example: Jocu Catarratto DOC Alcamo
To understand Alcamo Catarratto, you can start with Jocu Catarratto from Quattrocieli winery, an organic DOC Alcamo white. It comes from the Val di Bella vineyard in Alcamo, at 450 metres above sea level, on sandy, limestone soils. The grapes are hand-picked in mid-September, in the second ten days of the month. The wine ferments in steel for about fifteen days and matures in steel for six months, with no wood. You will find white flowers, ripe citrus and herbal notes, and a fresh, savoury finish.
The best way to taste it is at the winery, where it is made. At Quattrocieli you can stop for a walk-in tasting during opening hours, or book a visit with the winemaker among the vines and barrels.