Alcamo is a town in the province of Trapani, halfway between Palermo and Trapani, in the hills overlooking the Gulf of Castellammare. Many people just drive through it on their way to Scopello or San Vito Lo Capo. Yet it is worth a stop: it has a compact historic centre, a mountain with a nature reserve, the sea a few kilometres away and a long tradition of white wine.
The historic centre
The Castle of the Counts of Modica
The natural starting point is the Castle of the Counts of Modica, the 14th-century fortress that has become the symbol of the town. Leave the car nearby and continue on foot through the streets of the centre. Inside, there are now exhibition spaces devoted to the history of the castle and of Alcamo.
Piazza Ciullo and the churches
From the castle, a few minutes’ walk takes you to Piazza Ciullo, the heart of the town, named after the medieval poet Cielo (or Ciullo) d’Alcamo. The most important buildings are gathered around it:
- the Chiesa Madre, the Basilica of Maria Santissima Assunta, founded in the 14th century and rebuilt in the 17th, which also houses a museum of sacred art;
- the Chiesa del Gesù and the Jesuit College;
- the Church of Sant’Oliva;
- the Sanctuary of the Madonna dei Miracoli, dedicated to the town’s patron saint.
Opening hours of churches and museums change often: it is best to check them locally or on the town council website before your visit.
Cielo d’Alcamo and “Rosa fresca aulentissima”
Alcamo is linked to one of the earliest texts of Italian literature: Rosa fresca aulentissima, the poem attributed to Cielo d’Alcamo, a poet of the first half of the 13th century close to the Sicilian School of Frederick II. Every Italian who studied it at school finds it here again, in the name of the main square.
The Bosco d’Alcamo and Monte Bonifato
Above the town rises Monte Bonifato, home to the Bosco d’Alcamo nature reserve. There are waymarked trails of varying difficulty and a picnic area. Along the way you will find:
- the Funtanazza, a large medieval water reservoir;
- the Sanctuary of the Madonna dell’Alto;
- the remains of an ancient settlement and a medieval castle.
From the top the view takes in Alcamo and the whole Gulf of Castellammare. On clear days you can even see the Egadi Islands.
The sea: Alcamo Marina
About 6 kilometres from the centre is Alcamo Marina, with a long sandy beach that continues towards Balestrate. It is the closest beach to the town, handy for half a day, and just a few minutes from Castellammare del Golfo.
Nearby: Castellammare, Scopello and Segesta
Alcamo is a good base for exploring western Sicily:
- Castellammare del Golfo, with its harbour and castle by the sea;
- Scopello and its sea stacks, about 20 kilometres by road;
- the Zingaro Nature Reserve, just beyond Scopello;
- Segesta, with its Doric temple and theatre, inland.
What to taste in Alcamo
Traditional Alcamo sweets include pasta vergine (also called minni di virgini), cassatelle filled with ricotta and biscotti Umberto, twisted like the Savoy knot and dedicated to King Umberto I at the end of the 19th century.
The wine of Alcamo
Alcamo is above all white wine country. Its signature grape is Catarratto. As early as the 19th century, Alcamo white was listed among the fine table wines, and in 1887 it received a diploma of honour at the Venice Wine Fair. The Alcamo DOC was created in 1972 and today also includes whites from Grillo and Insolia, rosés and reds.
The best way to get to know it is to taste it where it is made. At Quattrocieli winery, on the SS119 road at kilometre 3.3, you can stop for a tasting without booking during opening hours, or book a guided visit of the vineyard and cellar.
Practical tips
- Getting around: a car is the most convenient way to reach Monte Bonifato, the sea and the wineries.
- When to go: spring and autumn are ideal for walking. The grape harvest takes place between September and October.
- How long: one day is enough for the historic centre and Monte Bonifato. If you add the sea and a winery, it is worth staying overnight in the area.