Castellammare del Golfo is the seaside town that gives its name to the gulf between Palermo and Trapani: colourful houses running down to the harbour, a castle on the water and, behind it, hills covered in vineyards. It is also a convenient base for Scopello, the Zingaro Nature Reserve and the wine country around Alcamo.
What to see in town
The Arab-Norman castle
The symbol of the town is the castle built on a promontory that juts into the harbour. The first written record comes from the Arab geographer Idrisi, who mentions it in 1154 in the Book of King Roger. Today it is publicly owned and houses museum spaces devoted to the sea and the history of the area. From its terraces you can see the whole gulf.
The harbour and Cala Marina
At the foot of the castle lies Cala Marina, the small harbour with fishing boats, seafood restaurants and the seafront promenade. It is the perfect place for a sunset stroll and a dinner of the day’s catch.
The churches of the centre
Walking up towards the centre you come to the Chiesa Madre, dedicated to Maria Santissima del Soccorso and rebuilt several times: the date 1726 refers to the third reconstruction. Not far away, overlooking the harbour, is the small Church of the Madonna della Scala, reached by a scenic flight of steps.
The beaches of Castellammare
- La Playa: the largest beach, with fine sand, about 2 km from the centre. Good for families.
- Cala Petrolo: a small sandy beach near the castle promontory, with usually calm water.
- Guidaloca: a crescent-shaped bay below a watchtower, with a seabed that snorkellers love.
Nearby
Scopello, the tuna fishery and the sea stacks
About 10 km away is Scopello, a small village gathered around a baglio (an old fortified farmstead). Below the village are the tonnara, one of the oldest tuna fisheries in Sicily, and the famous faraglioni sea stacks, among the most photographed sights on the island.
The Zingaro Nature Reserve
Just after Scopello begins the Zingaro Nature Reserve, the first protected stretch of coast in Sicily: a path along the sea leads to coves that can only be reached on foot. The southern entrance is about one kilometre from the village.
The Segestan thermal baths
Inland, at Ponte Bagni, about ten kilometres from Alcamo, are the Terme Segestane, with hot sulphur springs. They are a good idea for a relaxing stop after a day at the beach or on the trails.
Wine: the Alcamo hills behind the gulf
The hills behind Castellammare are part of the Alcamo DOC area, home of white wines from Catarratto, Grillo and Insolia. From the gulf you climb in a few minutes into the vineyards: at Quattrocieli winery, on the SS119 road in the Alcamo area, you can taste the organic wines of the area without booking, or book a tasting with local products, Saturday lunch or, in summer, a sunset evening among the vines.
Practical tips
- When to go: May to October for the sea; spring and autumn for walking in Zingaro, when it is less hot.
- Getting around: the town is easy to explore on foot, but you need a car for the beaches, Scopello and the wineries.
- Parking: in summer the centre and beaches fill up early: it is best to arrive in the morning.
Cover photo: sikeliakali, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons