In western Sicily, where you choose to stay shapes the whole trip. Distances look short on the map, but with coastal roads, bends and towns to drive through, the wrong base can cost you hours in the car every day.
In this guide we compare the best bases between Palermo, Trapani and Marsala: for each one, what is nearby, who it suits and what to watch out for. If you are still deciding what to see, start with our guide to western Sicily.
Before you choose: three questions
- Will you have a car? Almost all the bases below only work well with a rental car. Without one, it is better to stay in Palermo, Trapani or Marsala, which are connected by bus and train.
- What do you want to do most? Sea and nature, art cities, islands, wine: each base is more convenient for one of these.
- How many days do you have? For a week, two bases are usually the right choice: you avoid changing hotels every night and you cut down on transfers.
Castellammare del Golfo: the all-round base
Castellammare is halfway between Palermo and Trapani, right on the sea. Nearby you have Scopello and the Zingaro Nature Reserve, Segesta, the beaches of the gulf and the wine hills of Alcamo; both Palermo and Trapani are within day-trip distance. In the evening the town comes alive around the harbour and the castle.
Who it suits: those who want to mix sea, culture and wineries without changing base. Watch out: it is very busy in August, so book well ahead.
Alcamo and Alcamo Marina: between vineyards and sea
Alcamo is a real town, not very touristy, with a pleasant historic centre and, all around, the vineyards of the Alcamo DOC. In the countryside you will find farm stays and houses among the vines; on the coast, Alcamo Marina has a long sandy beach. Segesta is about twenty minutes away, and Castellammare and Scopello are close.
Who it suits: travellers with a car who want peace and quiet and to experience wine-country Sicily. Watch out: evenings are quieter than in Castellammare.
Scopello: small and beautiful
Scopello is a tiny village above the sea, a few minutes from the southern entrance of the Zingaro Nature Reserve. Early in the morning and in the evening, when the day visitors have left, it is one of the most magical places on the coast.
Who it suits: couples and walkers. Watch out: there are few places to stay and they fill up early; you need a car for everything else.
San Vito Lo Capo: if you mainly want the sea
San Vito has one of the most famous beaches in Sicily and is the ideal base for the northern side of Zingaro and for the Cous Cous Fest in September.
Who it suits: beach holidays. Watch out: it sits at the end of a peninsula, so every trip to Segesta, Palermo or Marsala takes longer.
Trapani: the gateway to the Egadi Islands
Trapani has a historic centre by the sea, plenty of restaurants and the port where hydrofoils leave for Favignana, Levanzo and Marettimo. From here you can ride the cable car up to Erice and easily reach the salt pans; Trapani Birgi airport is close by.
Who it suits: those who want to visit the islands and get around without a car too. Watch out: it is a bit far from Scopello and Zingaro.
Erice: a night above the clouds
Staying in Erice means seeing the village after the day trippers have gone down: silent alleys and sunsets over the salt pans. In summer it is cooler than the coast.
Who it suits: one or two special nights. Watch out: it is often wrapped in fog, and every outing means driving down the mountain.
Marsala: wine, salt pans and the south coast
Marsala has an elegant historic centre and the great historic Marsala wine houses. It is the most convenient base for the Stagnone lagoon, the island of Motya and, further south, Selinunte.
Who it suits: those who want to explore the coast between Trapani and Selinunte. Watch out: Palermo and the Gulf of Castellammare are far away.
Palermo: if your trip is mainly about the city
Palermo deserves a few nights, but as a base for all of western Sicily it is impractical: getting out of the city takes time, especially at rush hour. Better to spend your first or last nights there and then move west.
Which one to choose: in short
- A bit of everything: Castellammare del Golfo.
- Peace and wine: Alcamo and its countryside.
- Nature and wild coast: Scopello.
- Beach: San Vito Lo Capo.
- Egadi Islands and no car: Trapani.
- Stagnone, Motya and the south coast: Marsala.
For a week, a combination that works well is 3–4 nights between Castellammare and Alcamo and 3 nights in Trapani. To plan your days, see also our 7-day itinerary and our guide to the sea and beaches of Sicily.
If you stay near Alcamo
In the hills of Alcamo you will find Quattrocieli winery: you can stop by for a tasting or an experience among the vines and in the cellar, a good idea for an afternoon away from the beach. Here we explain how a wine tasting works and how much it costs, and here you will find the Quattrocieli experiences.
Cover photo: Berthold Werner, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons