Autumn may be the most underrated season to visit Sicily. Days stay long and mild, the sea in September and often in October is still good for swimming, beaches empty out and prices drop. Above all, it is harvest time on the island: grapes, olives, prickly pears.
Here is what to do in Sicily between September and November, with a special eye on western Sicily, between Palermo and Trapani.
Experience the grape harvest
In Sicily the harvest lasts a long time: it starts in August with the earliest grapes and goes on until October with those that ripen later. Around Alcamo, for example, Catarratto is usually picked in September. It is when wineries are at their liveliest, among crates, tractors and the smell of fermenting must.
It is not always possible to join the picking, but it is the ideal time for a tasting at a winery and to try the wines of the previous vintage. You will find all our tips in the article on the grape harvest in Sicily.
New olive oil
Between October and November the olive harvest begins and the mills work at full speed. Freshly pressed oil has an intense green colour and a peppery, bitter taste that lasts only a few weeks: the simplest way to try it is on a slice of warm bread with a pinch of salt. In the Belice valley, between Castelvetrano and Partanna, oil is made from the Nocellara del Belice olive.
The sea without the crowds
In September the sea is still warm, and even in October, on sunny days, a swim is pleasant. The most famous beaches, from San Vito Lo Capo to Scopello, become quiet again. It is also the best time for walking: with milder temperatures, the coastal paths become a stroll rather than an effort.
The Zingaro nature reserve, between Scopello and San Vito Lo Capo, is explored on foot along a coastal path that leads down to small coves: in autumn it is perfect. For more ideas on the coast, read our guides to Castellammare del Golfo and to the most beautiful beaches in Sicily.
Seasonal festivals and flavours
- The Cous Cous Fest in San Vito Lo Capo, usually at the end of September, brings cooks from all over the Mediterranean to the square. Read more in our article on the Cous Cous Fest.
- Prickly pears are around from late summer into autumn; the largest and sweetest are the “bastardoni”, which ripen later.
- The Feast of the Dead, on 2 November, is a deeply felt tradition: children are given sweets such as Martorana fruit and sugar figures. Find out more in our guide to Sicilian sweets.
- St Martin’s Day, on 11 November, is traditionally the day to taste the new wine, together with St Martin’s biscuits.
Villages and towns in a different light
In autumn Erice is often wrapped in clouds rising from the sea, which make its stone lanes even more atmospheric. Art cities too, from Palermo to Trapani, are easier to visit without the summer heat. If you want a ready-made route, try our 3 days between Palermo and Trapani.
What to pack
Until mid-October summer clothes and a swimsuit are enough; in the evening you may need a sweatshirt or a light jacket. From late October rainy days become more frequent, though usually short: bring a small umbrella and comfortable shoes for the trails.
An autumn day at the winery
Between a beach and a village, stop in the hills of Alcamo at Quattrocieli winery: in autumn tastings take place in front of the freshly harvested vineyard, and until the end of October there is also the Saturday lunch among the vines. Discover the experiences.
Cover photo: MOM104.papandrea, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons