Three days are not enough for all of Sicily, but they are perfect for the stretch of coast between Palermo and Trapani: a city of art, a Greek temple, a coastal nature reserve, a medieval village, the salt pans at sunset and, in between, the wine hills.
This itinerary is designed for those who fly into Palermo or Trapani and have a rental car. As a base we recommend a single place to stay between Castellammare del Golfo and Alcamo, in the middle of the route: no repacking every evening. To choose where to stay, read our guide to the best bases in western Sicily.
Day 1: Palermo
Spend the day in Palermo. Start with the Arab-Norman centre: the Cathedral, the Norman Palace with the Palatine Chapel and its mosaics, then the Quattro Canti and Piazza Pretoria with its fountain.
For lunch, street food in one of the historic markets, Ballarò, the Capo or the Vucciria: panelle, crocchè, pane con la milza and, of course, arancine. In the afternoon, if you still have energy, make a detour to Monreale for the cathedral; then head west to your base on the gulf, about an hour’s drive.
Tip: leave the car outside the centre of Palermo or in a guarded car park; the historic centre is easy to explore on foot.
Day 2: Segesta, Alcamo wine and Scopello
Morning: Segesta
Leave early for Segesta: in the morning light the Doric temple is spectacular and it is cooler. Also walk up to the ancient theatre on top of Monte Barbaro, overlooking the valley and, on clear days, the gulf.
Lunch: a wine tasting at a winery
From Segesta, in about twenty minutes you are in the hills of Alcamo, the land of Catarratto. It is the right moment for a stop at a winery: lunch or a tasting among the vines, to try the wines where they are made. If you have never done one, here we explain how a wine tasting works and how much it costs.
Afternoon and evening: Scopello and Castellammare
In the afternoon, head down to the sea: Scopello, with its tuna fishery and sea stacks, and the coves of the gulf. If you have time, enter the Zingaro Nature Reserve from the southern entrance for a walk along the first stretch of the coastal path. In the evening, dinner and a stroll in Castellammare del Golfo, by the harbour.
Tip: for Zingaro you need comfortable shoes, water and some caution in the hottest hours; there is an entrance fee for the reserve.
Day 3: Erice, Trapani and the salt pans
Morning: Erice
Go up to Erice by car or, from Trapani, by cable car. Get lost in the stone alleys, walk to the Castle of Venus for the view over the Egadi Islands and stop at a pastry shop for an almond sweet or a genovese, the village’s typical pastry.
Lunch and afternoon: Trapani
Head down to Trapani for lunch: it is the city of fish couscous and busiate pasta with pesto alla trapanese. Then stroll through the historic centre, squeezed between two seas, to the walls and the Torre di Ligny. If you are here at Easter, don’t miss the Procession of the Mysteries.
Sunset: the salt pans
End your trip along the salt road between Trapani and Marsala, when the sun sets behind the windmills and the pools turn pink. From here Trapani Birgi airport is close; for Palermo allow about an hour and a quarter.
If you have an extra day
- The Egadi Islands: from Trapani by hydrofoil, a day on Favignana by bike.
- The whole Zingaro Nature Reserve: a day of walking and swimming in the coves.
- Marsala, the Stagnone lagoon and Motya: wine, salt pans and a Phoenician island.
And if you have seven days, you will find a complete route in our 7-day Sicily itinerary; for all the places in the area, see our guide to western Sicily.
When to go
This itinerary is at its best in spring and autumn, when it is pleasant both in the city and by the sea and the roads are less busy. It works in summer too, but plan outdoor visits for the early morning.
The winery stop in Alcamo
For lunch on day two we recommend Quattrocieli winery, in the hills of Alcamo, a few minutes from Segesta: tastings, lunch among the vines and other experiences in the vineyard and cellar. Discover the experiences.
Cover photo: Francesco Mocellin, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons